Junior Editor In Chief
This October, Vivienne Westwood returned to the runway for the first time since 2019. The late designer employed design to comment vehemently on political and social justice, resulting in captivating collections and ultimately leading to what some call the origin of Punk. In celebration of the brand’s sensational return, let’s take a journey through their best catwalk looks over the years.
Autumn/Winter 1993/94 collection
Vivienne Westwood is known for her iconic bridal dresses, which typically served as the finale during runway shows- finishing off the exhibition with the pinnacle of drapery and design.
The Fall 1993 Ready-to-Wear collection, “Anglomania”, meshed smart British tailoring with the French tendency towards exaggerated proportions. This tartan bridal gown debuted the year after Westwood began designing wedding dresses, marrying her heritage with her vision. Westwood even went as far as inventing her own Scottish clan, which was officially recognized by the Lochcarron.
This collection would be known as one of the designer’s most memorable, between the outrageous use of clashing material and gravity-defying platforms.
Fall 1995 RTW
This look undoubtedly pays homage to the French fashion mogul Marie Antoinette, with the powdered white face and typical extravagantly frilly pink frock. If Vivienne Westwood is known for anything, it’s pushing, if not breaking boundaries- embracing the unconventional and controversial, much like the revolution-era queen.
The collection, titled “Vive La Cocotte”, was a cheeky celebration of 17th and 18th century fashions of the high class, recognizing powerful female figures and archetypes from our past.
The use of heavy decolletage and hyper-feminine garments like the bustier top, while simultaneously putting the models in a position of admiration, makes a statement that women can be sexy and powerful at the same time.
Fall 1996 RTW
“Storm in a Teacup”, as the collection is titled, was inspired by rococo furniture, dreary British weather, and various historical eras (from classical to medieval and renaissance). Loud plaids and moody makeup convey the English attitude.
Another prominent motif throughout the collection is extreme asymmetry. The look on the left exemplifies this asymmetry and juxtaposition by combining the Elizabethan ruff- a symbol of purity and religious sacrifice- with a short tailored set, garters, and thigh highs. Vivienne Westwood consistently challenges the taboos related to a woman’s body, using historical elements to build contradictions that cause the viewer to think.
The name of the collection itself is an analogy for female empowerment, nodding to the fact that powerful forces can come in beautiful and dainty packaging.
Fall 2019 RTW
Westwood’s designs since the turn of the century have been largely influenced by her passion for climate change awareness. During an interview with The Guardian in 2014 she stated, “climate change, not fashion, is now my priority.” Having always been partial to loudly expressing her opinions through design, the 2019 RTW collection was chock-full of loud environmental messaging.
While visually, this collection may be a far cry from the tailored, classical silhouettes seen over the past decades- the aggressive activism incorporated into the theme is very on brand.
This political display of couture would be the brand’s last runway show until this Fall.
This Year at Shanghai Fashion Week
Vivienne Westwood made a comeback this past October during Shanghai Fashion Week, under the helm of the new Creative Director, Andreas Kronthaler. The collection was a dazzling mix of street style and spectacular tailoring, touting voluminous silhouettes and enviable androgyny.
Kronthaler understandably has left his own fingerprint on the brand, as he has for decades, being both her design partner and life partner of more than two decades. However, he continues to produce the controversial, boundary-pushing garments that viewers expect to see from the brand. The challenging of gender stereotypes and modesty expectations, as well as rampant political commentary will continue to be a staple in Vivienne Westwood collections. Following Westwood’s death, Kronthaler solemnly commented, “I will continue with Vivienne in my heart. We have been working until the end and she has given me plenty of things to get on with. Thank you darling.”