Lace and Lore: Unveiling the history of Southern Gothic
Lace and Lore: Unveiling the history of Southern Gothic While the South is the birthplace of many parts of our current culture, it has also enabled countless atrocities our country has seen, and to this day saves space for discrimination and bigotry. Southern Gothic holds a mirror to the dark side of the south, tales of religious trauma, classism, racism, and generational mental health struggles; real problems which are covered by fake smiles and thoughts and prayers. A fashion aesthetic that has become mainstreamed and characterized by crosses, lace, ruffles, moody makeup and long tousled hair, has existed as an exceptionally emotional literary and artistic style for decades. Early displays of Southern Gothic can be seen in pivotal works like Harper Lee’s To Kill A Mockingbird, and in passed down tales which encompass the horrors in which the South was built upon. This trend has made a name for itself in the fashion world, being featured in runway shows by Maison Margiela, Miu Miu, and Sandy Liang. Ruffled collars, dark lace, long hemlines and high necks are all details that have crept into the couture scene. Ethel Cain has become the leading figure of the current pop culture adaptation of Southern Gothic. Her albums, filled with hauntingly beautiful songs which tell the painful story of growing up in the south, supply this aesthetic with a simultaneously melancholy and beautiful soundtrack. Cain’s imagery as an artist including religious symbolism, dark motifs, and vintage lace nightgowns all reclaim the very style of the people who repress individualism in the South. Under the guise of colonialism, differences amongst neighbors are usually seen as threats. In today’s world, queerness and expressive fashion is seen through a negative lens in certain parts of the south. For those in the south who are different, it can turn into a tug of war between wanting to move away to a more accepting place, while also having love for the place that raised you. This style gives power back to those who have been cast aside by the bitterness of the south. Southern Gothic as an “aesthetic” has become a home for many people who feel they cannot return to theirs.
The Legendary Couture of Vivienne Westwood
The Legendary Couture of Vivienne Westwood This October, Vivienne Westwood returned to the runway for the first time since 2019. The late designer employed design to comment vehemently on political and social justice, resulting in captivating collections and ultimately leading to what some call the origin of Punk. In celebration of the brand’s sensational return, let’s take a journey through their best catwalk looks over the years. Kate Moss Wearing a Tartan Wedding Gown Autumn/Winter 1993/94 collection Vivienne Westwood is known for her iconic bridal dresses, which typically served as the finale during runway shows- finishing off the exhibition with the pinnacle of drapery and design. The Fall 1993 Ready-to-Wear collection, “Anglomania”, meshed smart British tailoring with the French tendency towards exaggerated proportions. This tartan bridal gown debuted the year after Westwood began designing wedding dresses, marrying her heritage with her vision. Westwood even went as far as inventing her own Scottish clan, which was officially recognized by the Lochcarron. This collection would be known as one of the designer’s most memorable, between the outrageous use of clashing material and gravity-defying platforms. Fall 1995 RTW This look undoubtedly pays homage to the French fashion mogul Marie Antoinette, with the powdered white face and typical extravagantly frilly pink frock. If Vivienne Westwood is known for anything, it’s pushing, if not breaking boundaries- embracing the unconventional and controversial, much like the revolution-era queen. The collection, titled “Vive La Cocotte”, was a cheeky celebration of 17th and 18th century fashions of the high class, recognizing powerful female figures and archetypes from our past. The use of heavy decolletage and hyper-feminine garments like the bustier top, while simultaneously putting the models in a position of admiration, makes a statement that women can be sexy and powerful at the same time. Fall 1996 RTW collection Fall 1996 RTW “Storm in a Teacup”, as the collection is titled, was inspired by rococo furniture, dreary British weather, and various historical eras (from classical to medieval and renaissance). Loud plaids and moody makeup convey the English attitude. Another prominent motif throughout the collection is extreme asymmetry. The look on the left exemplifies this asymmetry and juxtaposition by combining the Elizabethan ruff- a symbol of purity and religious sacrifice- with a short tailored set, garters, and thigh highs. Vivienne Westwood consistently challenges the taboos related to a woman’s body, using historical elements to build contradictions that cause the viewer to think. The name of the collection itself is an analogy for female empowerment, nodding to the fact that powerful forces can come in beautiful and dainty packaging. Vivienne Westwood RTW 2019 Fall 2019 RTW Westwood’s designs since the turn of the century have been largely influenced by her passion for climate change awareness. During an interview with The Guardian in 2014 she stated, “climate change, not fashion, is now my priority.” Having always been partial to loudly expressing her opinions through design, the 2019 RTW collection was chock-full of loud environmental messaging. While visually, this collection may be a far cry from the tailored, classical silhouettes seen over the past decades- the aggressive activism incorporated into the theme is very on brand. This political display of couture would be the brand’s last runway show until this Fall. Andraes Kronthanler for Vivienne Westwood SS25 RTW This Year at Shanghai Fashion Week Vivienne Westwood made a comeback this past October during Shanghai Fashion Week, under the helm of the new Creative Director, Andreas Kronthaler. The collection was a dazzling mix of street style and spectacular tailoring, touting voluminous silhouettes and enviable androgyny. Kronthaler understandably has left his own fingerprint on the brand, as he has for decades, being both her design partner and life partner of more than two decades. However, he continues to produce the controversial, boundary-pushing garments that viewers expect to see from the brand. The challenging of gender stereotypes and modesty expectations, as well as rampant political commentary will continue to be a staple in Vivienne Westwood collections. Following Westwood’s death, Kronthaler solemnly commented, “I will continue with Vivienne in my heart. We have been working until the end and she has given me plenty of things to get on with. Thank you darling.”
The Influence of Sex Worker Fashion
The Influence of Sex Worker Fashion With the rise in popularity of shows like Max’s Euphoria and Sex and the City, FX’s Pose and Sean Baker’s new film Anora, it’s hard to not notice the fashion scene that’s been influenced by the sex work scene and those who keep it alive. Their embodiment of sexual desire and pleasure can be easily expressed through clothes and accessories. This is a visual concept that has influenced fashion since the 1970s. Yet, due to popular luxury brands and designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer and Marc Jacobs, this scene has been replicated in fashion and applied to modern society. Here are a few trends, their origins and how they’ve transformed American style. High Heels and Knee-Highs In the height of the 2010s and into the 2020s, high heels and knee high shoes have become extremely commercialized. They can be seen on stage by your favorite pop artists such as Ariana Grande and Sabrina Carpenter. Grande embraced this style as she embarked on her solo music journey, being spotted in them since 2015. It’s clear Carpenter took some inspiration from Ariana; finishing up the U.S. leg of her “Short ‘n Sweet Tour,” she can be seen wearing glittery silver platform heels with heart cutouts on the sides. Little did you know, that style you see on stage was appropriated from sex worker culture. The heels are seen as a powerful entity in order to accentuate lines that came from photographs taken of individual workers. Crop Tops Today, crop tops are normalized and worn by all shapes, sizes and gender identities. This trend began as a cultural phenomenon in the late 1960s and 1970s dominating America as sexual liberation and self-expression were running rampant. Even though they were seen as raunchy and exploratory, men started challenging gender norms by wearing them cut at different lengths for the same reason as women. Nowadays in American society, they’re worn by teens in a more casual manner due to their ease, practicality and versatility. However, it was the 2010s that solidified their placement in society. Having influencers, celebrities and designers reimagining them by styling and designing them to be loose and flowy or structured and more form fitting. This allowed for numerous individuals being introduced and accustomed to the fashion of the modern age. Corsets Although they trace back to around 1000 BC by the Minoan people of Crete, corsets didn’t start to become a staple in fashion until the Victorian era. Instead of ensuring modesty, originally they were all about highlighting the curvaceousness of the female figure through the boning structure. What once was a supportive undergarment has now shifted into a focal piece for numerous styles and outfits of all shapes and sizes. Bella Hadid was photographed leaving a New York Fashion Week event wearing a vintage Vivienne Westwood archival corset top, from her fall-winter 1993 collection. The piece completed with a kiss between Hercules and Omphale on the front. Although it may seem like corsets are for smaller and skinnier frames, Lizzo has been breaking the fashion mold for bigger bodies. She arrived at the 2022 Met Gala in a black Thom Browne cutout corset dress which perfectly fit the “Gilded Glamour” theme. The theme was intended to highlight the Met Costume Institute’s “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” exhibition. Lizzo’s corseted statement pieces have expanded the universe of fashion for all bodies; showcasing the versatility of fashion trends and clothing for everyone. Latex Dresses Fetishistic by nature and origin, latex and rubber dresses have been embraced by pop culture and have also made their way out of the dungeon. Just like corsets, the job performed by latex and rubber dresses is to define the natural body in a futuristic, new light. It’s seen as one of the most sensual fabrics out there and I couldn’t agree more. The goal is to attract attention and to push the limits that were previously held within the fashion industry. Designers utilizing the latex more and challenging the norms back then are one of the primary reasons for the destigmatization of latex dresses from its affiliation to sex worker culture. Moreover, style icon celebrities like Beyoncé and Halle Bailey have catapulted the material as a fierce and powerful statement within fashion as well. All eyes were on Beyoncé in 2016 when she arrived at the Met Gala wearing an embellished latex dress by Givenchy while taking a short break from her “Formation Tour.” Succeeding her mentor at the 2024 BET Awards, Halle Bailey showcased a backless black latex dress by Avellano. With latex dresses coming into the limelight increasingly every year, it’s important to note something. While the material is eye-catching and draws attention to the person fitted in it, it’s ultimately about how you feel about yourself wearing it. It symbolizes power, control and confidence, and I feel if you don’t embody one of those symbols then the piece won’t be presented in the same manner.
Good Old Raisins and Peanuts: Functional Fashion
Good Old Raisins and Peanuts: Functional Fashion Clothing provided by Ceebluesstore in RVA What is Gorp-core? The odd moniker comes from the phrase “good old raisins and peanuts”, referring to popular snacks brought along to activities associated with the aesthetic- such as hiking, rock climbing, and camping. Gorp-core incorporates workwear and functional outdoor attire into everyday outfits in a way that is explorative and free from gender constrictions. The concept for this photoshoot was pitched by our Junior Creative Director Kristina Wise, who has a background in construction and a love for the outdoors. “When I first learned about the Gorpcore aesthetic, I was super excited because, as an outdoors person, I already had a lot of pieces that fit the aesthetic and essentially had been participating in it without knowing the name for it,” said Wise. Gorp-core allows individuals to delve deeper into their gender expression, as the aesthetic is largely composed of what is typically considered “men’s wear”. With the current binary state of the fashion industry, this aesthetic has created a space that reinforces the idea that clothing is not gendered. “Any one can wear it, and depending on styling can lean into their own gender expression,” said Wise. If interested in trying out the aesthetic, take a peek in your closet or nearby second-hand shops for technical outerwear (like utility or hunting jackets), a hardy pair of denim or camo pants, and a good clunky boot. P.S. A good place to start the search is Ceeblues! Gorp-core is a highly accessible aesthetic. Interesting, high quality pieces can be found at thrift shops or vintage stores at a wide range of price points. Additionally, due to the functional nature of the aesthetic, any garment you buy to experiment with will be highly versatile. Outdoor exploration can be at times exclusionary, but Gorp-core is taking over the adventurous aesthetic and bringing it to new frontiers.
Androgynous In Athleisure: Ready to Play?
Androgynous In Athleisure: Ready to Play? We are purposefully styling these athletic elements to wear them all day, making our outfits more functional and making us ready to play. The fashion world has seen a steady, increased influence of athleisure since the 80s. What started with baggy tracksuits evolved into Princess Diana’s iconic crew necks and biker shorts, and has now turned into athletic wear that allows you to blur the lines of gender in your day to day looks. In the last year, I’m sure we have all looked down at some point and noticed the sea of Adidas Sambas or New Balance “dad” sneakers among us. These subtle additions of athleisure, easily add the perfect masculine edge to any outfit. Pair them with an ultra feminine dress or skirt, and you have an immediately more intriguing look. While seeing those notorious three stripes walk past you multiple times a day might seem like an over-saturated trend, they have risen to popularity for a reason. Jersey tops have also been caught up by mainstream fashion trends, as a unique piece of clothing that adds an effortlessly cool essence to an otherwise basic look. A boxy jersey paired with a chic pair of oversized glasses, baggy jeans and ballet flats has been an outfit formula frequently replicated by fashion influencers. Adding athletic elements to feminine, or more simple outfits adds a playful element. What sets athleisure in 2024 apart from that in the 80s/90s is that we aren’t just being seen in sportswear to and from workouts. We are purposefully styling these elements to wear all day, making our outfits more functional and making us ready to play. In addition to outright athletic wear and materials like mesh, nylon, and polyester, plaid and striped patterns have also been making appearances in recent trend cycles. With fall around the corner, there will undoubtedly be an influx in striped clothing elements, might as well beat the trend and pair them with the stripes on your Adidas’. Button downs, chunky stripes, and anything plaid are all collegiate elements that pair seamlessly with athleisure. Not only do these pops of leisurewear add a playful element to daily outfits, but they add edge and functionality. Next time you’re getting ready, don’t fear looking underdressed or too casual, there are ways to incorporate athleisure that look purposeful and add an unexpected chic flair to your look. Clothing Items borrowed from Ap0cene: –Human Wear Solutions, Oversized White Button down –Lorem Ipsum, Incision Tie –Briar Will, Denim tracksuit pants –Crippledmnd, Tartan Skirt –Feaath, Polo Mini Dress –Deniz, French Terry Duffle Bag
If Looks Could Kill: Why the Generation that Preaches Body Positivity is Bringing Back Heroin Chic
If Looks Could Kill: Why the Generation that Preaches Body Positivity is Bringing Back Heroin Chic Generation Z (those born between 1997-2012) have been a powerful voice in the realm of body positivity; urging individuals to love and accept their bodies and demanding the fashion industry to diversify model body types and expand size ranges in clothing. So why is the rail thin emaciated look of the 90’s being brought back to the spotlight? Amongst the craze for Ozempic, coke, and diet culture, our generation is once again romanticizing a deadly aesthetic. This isn’t the first time unhealthy body ideals have been re-sensationalized. Look back to the 2010’s Tumblr era and the plethora of eating disorder-promoting media that was circulating. Or look at the Kardashians, who will risk life-threatening procedures like BBLs and liposuction to dramatically alter their bodies as trends shift. The high fashion scene of the 1990’s birthed the aesthetic we call “Heroin Chic”- characterized by models with gaunt frames and sallow faces, adorned with dark smudged eyeshadow. The Heroin Chic model was typically associated with a lifestyle of partying and illicit drug use. Supermodels of the era seemed to all have this look, from the poster girl Kate Moss to Jaime King to Gia Carangi from whom the term originated. Young women idolized this image as they flipped through the pages of Vogue, leading to a massive spike in eating disorders from 1990 to 1998. The Heroin Chic obsession began to dwindle at the turn of the century, however excessive thinness continued to be prevalent on the runway and in print. Flash forward to the 2020’s, Generation Z have typically been outspoken about retiring old-fashioned and unhealthy body standards, and have often been credited with “inventing” the body positivity movement. Unfortunately, social media platforms (primarily TikTok) have become the champions of breeding extreme trends like the carnivore diet and toxic body shaming workout content. Additionally, the sensationalizing of weight loss drugs like Ozempic or other substances like cocaine have skyrocketed due to this generation’s adoration for influencers and musicians like Charlie XCX. The culmination of all of these obsessions have led young people to once again idolize the jutting collarbones and Tim Burton-esque faces that were worshiped in the 90’s. When it comes down to it, body types should not be “trending”- let’s leave that to the clothes. The drugs, disorders, and surgeries required to “keep up” with society’s ever-changing ideal body are not sustainable and are beyond dangerous. So why did we switch up? And where do we go from here? Prevalence of Eating Disorders by Age. Our World in Data. Retrieved November 14, 2022, from https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/prevalence-of-eating-disorders-by-age?country=~USA https://images.app.goo.gl/Eojtgc2xCfPj54aK9
Saying Hello To Spring
Saying Hello To Spring As the cold gloomy cover of winter slowly dwindles away, Spring’s soft touch is drifting in. While we take time to either reminisce on our ultra-layered cold weather looks, or happily packaway our bulky coats, Spring is working overtime to bring vibrance back to our world. The least we could do is bring the same to our wardrobes. Springtime shows us that all can be reborn again, it reminds us how much life the world has to give. As the days turn warmer, and the sun washes the world in yellow once again, the opportunities to rediscover our style are endless. While mother nature is busy bringing reblooming nature, we can plant new seeds within our closets to help our personal style grow. This Spring show off your ultra feminine pieces, or that one dress that looks straight out of ‘Pride And Prejudice’. Lace, declotage, and vintage nightgowns are some key elements that we will be seeing this season. Sofia Coppola films like ‘The Virgin Suicides’, or ‘Marie Antoinette’, exude the essence of spring, and they are huge inspirations for this Springs’ fashion. This season, focus on taking life slowly, touching grass in the literal sense, and maybe switch out your Spring cleaning for some Spring thrifting. Nature is thriving with abundance, it’s only natural for our closets to follow suit!