The Influence of Sex Worker Fashion
The Influence of Sex Worker Fashion With the rise in popularity of shows like Max’s Euphoria and Sex and the City, FX’s Pose and Sean Baker’s new film Anora, it’s hard to not notice the fashion scene that’s been influenced by the sex work scene and those who keep it alive. Their embodiment of sexual desire and pleasure can be easily expressed through clothes and accessories. This is a visual concept that has influenced fashion since the 1970s. Yet, due to popular luxury brands and designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer and Marc Jacobs, this scene has been replicated in fashion and applied to modern society. Here are a few trends, their origins and how they’ve transformed American style. High Heels and Knee-Highs In the height of the 2010s and into the 2020s, high heels and knee high shoes have become extremely commercialized. They can be seen on stage by your favorite pop artists such as Ariana Grande and Sabrina Carpenter. Grande embraced this style as she embarked on her solo music journey, being spotted in them since 2015. It’s clear Carpenter took some inspiration from Ariana; finishing up the U.S. leg of her “Short ‘n Sweet Tour,” she can be seen wearing glittery silver platform heels with heart cutouts on the sides. Little did you know, that style you see on stage was appropriated from sex worker culture. The heels are seen as a powerful entity in order to accentuate lines that came from photographs taken of individual workers. Crop Tops Today, crop tops are normalized and worn by all shapes, sizes and gender identities. This trend began as a cultural phenomenon in the late 1960s and 1970s dominating America as sexual liberation and self-expression were running rampant. Even though they were seen as raunchy and exploratory, men started challenging gender norms by wearing them cut at different lengths for the same reason as women. Nowadays in American society, they’re worn by teens in a more casual manner due to their ease, practicality and versatility. However, it was the 2010s that solidified their placement in society. Having influencers, celebrities and designers reimagining them by styling and designing them to be loose and flowy or structured and more form fitting. This allowed for numerous individuals being introduced and accustomed to the fashion of the modern age. Corsets Although they trace back to around 1000 BC by the Minoan people of Crete, corsets didn’t start to become a staple in fashion until the Victorian era. Instead of ensuring modesty, originally they were all about highlighting the curvaceousness of the female figure through the boning structure. What once was a supportive undergarment has now shifted into a focal piece for numerous styles and outfits of all shapes and sizes. Bella Hadid was photographed leaving a New York Fashion Week event wearing a vintage Vivienne Westwood archival corset top, from her fall-winter 1993 collection. The piece completed with a kiss between Hercules and Omphale on the front. Although it may seem like corsets are for smaller and skinnier frames, Lizzo has been breaking the fashion mold for bigger bodies. She arrived at the 2022 Met Gala in a black Thom Browne cutout corset dress which perfectly fit the “Gilded Glamour” theme. The theme was intended to highlight the Met Costume Institute’s “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” exhibition. Lizzo’s corseted statement pieces have expanded the universe of fashion for all bodies; showcasing the versatility of fashion trends and clothing for everyone. Latex Dresses Fetishistic by nature and origin, latex and rubber dresses have been embraced by pop culture and have also made their way out of the dungeon. Just like corsets, the job performed by latex and rubber dresses is to define the natural body in a futuristic, new light. It’s seen as one of the most sensual fabrics out there and I couldn’t agree more. The goal is to attract attention and to push the limits that were previously held within the fashion industry. Designers utilizing the latex more and challenging the norms back then are one of the primary reasons for the destigmatization of latex dresses from its affiliation to sex worker culture. Moreover, style icon celebrities like Beyoncé and Halle Bailey have catapulted the material as a fierce and powerful statement within fashion as well. All eyes were on Beyoncé in 2016 when she arrived at the Met Gala wearing an embellished latex dress by Givenchy while taking a short break from her “Formation Tour.” Succeeding her mentor at the 2024 BET Awards, Halle Bailey showcased a backless black latex dress by Avellano. With latex dresses coming into the limelight increasingly every year, it’s important to note something. While the material is eye-catching and draws attention to the person fitted in it, it’s ultimately about how you feel about yourself wearing it. It symbolizes power, control and confidence, and I feel if you don’t embody one of those symbols then the piece won’t be presented in the same manner.
Good Old Raisins and Peanuts: Functional Fashion
Good Old Raisins and Peanuts: Functional Fashion Clothing provided by Ceebluesstore in RVA What is Gorp-core? The odd moniker comes from the phrase “good old raisins and peanuts”, referring to popular snacks brought along to activities associated with the aesthetic- such as hiking, rock climbing, and camping. Gorp-core incorporates workwear and functional outdoor attire into everyday outfits in a way that is explorative and free from gender constrictions. The concept for this photoshoot was pitched by our Junior Creative Director Kristina Wise, who has a background in construction and a love for the outdoors. “When I first learned about the Gorpcore aesthetic, I was super excited because, as an outdoors person, I already had a lot of pieces that fit the aesthetic and essentially had been participating in it without knowing the name for it,” said Wise. Gorp-core allows individuals to delve deeper into their gender expression, as the aesthetic is largely composed of what is typically considered “men’s wear”. With the current binary state of the fashion industry, this aesthetic has created a space that reinforces the idea that clothing is not gendered. “Any one can wear it, and depending on styling can lean into their own gender expression,” said Wise. If interested in trying out the aesthetic, take a peek in your closet or nearby second-hand shops for technical outerwear (like utility or hunting jackets), a hardy pair of denim or camo pants, and a good clunky boot. P.S. A good place to start the search is Ceeblues! Gorp-core is a highly accessible aesthetic. Interesting, high quality pieces can be found at thrift shops or vintage stores at a wide range of price points. Additionally, due to the functional nature of the aesthetic, any garment you buy to experiment with will be highly versatile. Outdoor exploration can be at times exclusionary, but Gorp-core is taking over the adventurous aesthetic and bringing it to new frontiers.
Androgynous In Athleisure: Ready to Play?
Androgynous In Athleisure: Ready to Play? We are purposefully styling these athletic elements to wear them all day, making our outfits more functional and making us ready to play. The fashion world has seen a steady, increased influence of athleisure since the 80s. What started with baggy tracksuits evolved into Princess Diana’s iconic crew necks and biker shorts, and has now turned into athletic wear that allows you to blur the lines of gender in your day to day looks. In the last year, I’m sure we have all looked down at some point and noticed the sea of Adidas Sambas or New Balance “dad” sneakers among us. These subtle additions of athleisure, easily add the perfect masculine edge to any outfit. Pair them with an ultra feminine dress or skirt, and you have an immediately more intriguing look. While seeing those notorious three stripes walk past you multiple times a day might seem like an over-saturated trend, they have risen to popularity for a reason. Jersey tops have also been caught up by mainstream fashion trends, as a unique piece of clothing that adds an effortlessly cool essence to an otherwise basic look. A boxy jersey paired with a chic pair of oversized glasses, baggy jeans and ballet flats has been an outfit formula frequently replicated by fashion influencers. Adding athletic elements to feminine, or more simple outfits adds a playful element. What sets athleisure in 2024 apart from that in the 80s/90s is that we aren’t just being seen in sportswear to and from workouts. We are purposefully styling these elements to wear all day, making our outfits more functional and making us ready to play. In addition to outright athletic wear and materials like mesh, nylon, and polyester, plaid and striped patterns have also been making appearances in recent trend cycles. With fall around the corner, there will undoubtedly be an influx in striped clothing elements, might as well beat the trend and pair them with the stripes on your Adidas’. Button downs, chunky stripes, and anything plaid are all collegiate elements that pair seamlessly with athleisure. Not only do these pops of leisurewear add a playful element to daily outfits, but they add edge and functionality. Next time you’re getting ready, don’t fear looking underdressed or too casual, there are ways to incorporate athleisure that look purposeful and add an unexpected chic flair to your look. Clothing Items borrowed from Ap0cene: –Human Wear Solutions, Oversized White Button down –Lorem Ipsum, Incision Tie –Briar Will, Denim tracksuit pants –Crippledmnd, Tartan Skirt –Feaath, Polo Mini Dress –Deniz, French Terry Duffle Bag
If Looks Could Kill: Why the Generation that Preaches Body Positivity is Bringing Back Heroin Chic
If Looks Could Kill: Why the Generation that Preaches Body Positivity is Bringing Back Heroin Chic Generation Z (those born between 1997-2012) have been a powerful voice in the realm of body positivity; urging individuals to love and accept their bodies and demanding the fashion industry to diversify model body types and expand size ranges in clothing. So why is the rail thin emaciated look of the 90’s being brought back to the spotlight? Amongst the craze for Ozempic, coke, and diet culture, our generation is once again romanticizing a deadly aesthetic. This isn’t the first time unhealthy body ideals have been re-sensationalized. Look back to the 2010’s Tumblr era and the plethora of eating disorder-promoting media that was circulating. Or look at the Kardashians, who will risk life-threatening procedures like BBLs and liposuction to dramatically alter their bodies as trends shift. The high fashion scene of the 1990’s birthed the aesthetic we call “Heroin Chic”- characterized by models with gaunt frames and sallow faces, adorned with dark smudged eyeshadow. The Heroin Chic model was typically associated with a lifestyle of partying and illicit drug use. Supermodels of the era seemed to all have this look, from the poster girl Kate Moss to Jaime King to Gia Carangi from whom the term originated. Young women idolized this image as they flipped through the pages of Vogue, leading to a massive spike in eating disorders from 1990 to 1998. The Heroin Chic obsession began to dwindle at the turn of the century, however excessive thinness continued to be prevalent on the runway and in print. Flash forward to the 2020’s, Generation Z have typically been outspoken about retiring old-fashioned and unhealthy body standards, and have often been credited with “inventing” the body positivity movement. Unfortunately, social media platforms (primarily TikTok) have become the champions of breeding extreme trends like the carnivore diet and toxic body shaming workout content. Additionally, the sensationalizing of weight loss drugs like Ozempic or other substances like cocaine have skyrocketed due to this generation’s adoration for influencers and musicians like Charlie XCX. The culmination of all of these obsessions have led young people to once again idolize the jutting collarbones and Tim Burton-esque faces that were worshiped in the 90’s. When it comes down to it, body types should not be “trending”- let’s leave that to the clothes. The drugs, disorders, and surgeries required to “keep up” with society’s ever-changing ideal body are not sustainable and are beyond dangerous. So why did we switch up? And where do we go from here? Prevalence of Eating Disorders by Age. Our World in Data. Retrieved November 14, 2022, from https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/prevalence-of-eating-disorders-by-age?country=~USA https://images.app.goo.gl/Eojtgc2xCfPj54aK9
Saying Hello To Spring
Saying Hello To Spring As the cold gloomy cover of winter slowly dwindles away, Spring’s soft touch is drifting in. While we take time to either reminisce on our ultra-layered cold weather looks, or happily packaway our bulky coats, Spring is working overtime to bring vibrance back to our world. The least we could do is bring the same to our wardrobes. Springtime shows us that all can be reborn again, it reminds us how much life the world has to give. As the days turn warmer, and the sun washes the world in yellow once again, the opportunities to rediscover our style are endless. While mother nature is busy bringing reblooming nature, we can plant new seeds within our closets to help our personal style grow. This Spring show off your ultra feminine pieces, or that one dress that looks straight out of ‘Pride And Prejudice’. Lace, declotage, and vintage nightgowns are some key elements that we will be seeing this season. Sofia Coppola films like ‘The Virgin Suicides’, or ‘Marie Antoinette’, exude the essence of spring, and they are huge inspirations for this Springs’ fashion. This season, focus on taking life slowly, touching grass in the literal sense, and maybe switch out your Spring cleaning for some Spring thrifting. Nature is thriving with abundance, it’s only natural for our closets to follow suit!
Far Out in the 60s
Far Out In The Sixties Vibrant and bold colors, silhouettes that catch the eye seemingly without trying, and patterns that make you question what time period you’re really in – these are all aspects of the infamous 1960s Mod Fashion. A bright sunny day in Richmond was nothing short of ideal for the shoot – the blue sky posed as an accessory in the perfect blue hue for this era. It’s ironic though, considering the birth of Mod fashion was in London, a city commonly known for its rainy weather. The Start of “Mod” 60s Mod Fashion can be described as a revolution that originated in London, driven by the youth. Mod, an abbreviation from “Modernist”, was coined in the 1950s. Despite the fashion, it’s associated with having its moment the following decade. During the tumultuous decade, politics were changing, young people wanted to be seen and be able to express themselves in a new way, and they were attempting to free themselves of the traditional expectations from previous generations. What better way to express a change of attitude than with fashion? Instead of muted and pale tones that were seen in the 50s, bright colors and bold patterns were making their way onto the scene. Infamous Trailblazers A trailblazer of the time and of the whole Mod fashion insurgence is none other than Mary Quant. She opened up a boutique in Chelsea in 1955, shortly after this would be the birth of the “London Look”. Her simple designs of A-line style dresses, in shorter lengths than had been seen before and in brighter colors, were soon everywhere. She styled these dresses with colored tights as well, another fashion piece that was introduced in the 60s, saying goodbye to stockings and garters. Other designers that are contributors similar to Quant in the Mod Fashion scene are Barbara Hulanicki, Pierre Cardin, Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin, as well as André Courrèges, and Michael Fish. A Closer Look At Styling For this shoot, we had the privilege of styling the models with a local business – Bygones. A vintage clothing store located in the heart of Carytown. The internal setup of Bygones is something similar to a fashion lover’s dream – vintage pieces separated by the decade lining the walls. Each piece chosen takes us back in time to the far out 60s. Each one is paired with the necessities for a Mod look: tights, sunglasses or belts, and effortlessly cool hairstyles and makeup looks. As the warm spring weather makes a staggering entrance this season, there is no doubt the trends of the 60s will be sneaking into our closets. Embrace all the funky accessories, asymmetrical silhouettes, colored tights and the fun that comes with the styles of decade known for peace, love, and rock and roll. Contributors: Creative Director: Carolina GomezJunior Creative Director: Alyssa CarmanPhotoset Assistant/Outreach: Kristina Wise Photography: Summer Deciucis and Carolina Gomez Makeup & Hair: Amaris Bowers, Summer DeciucisModels: Jaylyn Johnson, Julia Sweeney, Ella Crowe, Grace Blair
Trend Tuesday: Leopard Print
Trend Tuesday: Leopard Print This week we’re highlighting the never-ending phenomenon of animal print, specifically, leopard. Critics and lovers of the iconic pattern have argued throughout the decades whether or not leopard deserves to come back into cycle season after season. We’re here to say it rightfully deserves its place in fashion, and it’s something we’re excited to see even more of as the years go on. While cheetah and leopard are commonly grouped together and sometimes confused, this week’s Trend Tuesday aims to highlight leopard print and how it’s been worn throughout fashion history. In more recent times, leopard print has been seen everywhere. From the runway to trending sneakers, wallpapers and room decor, makeup looks and haircuts, handbags and tights, it’s guaranteed to be everywhere. Is there such a thing as too much? Or could there never be enough? A Brief Overview of Leopard Throughout the Years “If you are fair and sweet, don’t wear it.” – Christian Dior Animal prints have been worn and imitated long before fashion designers and runways became a thing. One of the most noted examples of this is Seshat, the Egyptian goddess of wisdom who is frequently depicted wearing a leopard skin dress. Many kings and queens from ancient times would wear leopard print skins because of its powerful meaning. It signifies power and wealth, which stems from the fierce animals themselves, as well as who the print was available to. In regards to the runway, leopard print first debuted in Christian Dior’s “New Look” collection in 1947. Christian Dior’s “New Look” leopard-print dress Leopard print carried on its exclusive and powerful reputation throughout the mid 1900s. Only the elite were spotted wearing it. Some even went as far as to purchase actual leopards, cheetahs, and jaguars to walk on leashes. Throughout the 50s and 60s, leopard print became even bigger, specifically for rich wives who sported it through their fur coats. Jackie Kennedy’s extravagant ensembles pushed leopard print even more into the public eye, in turn also amping up the movement for animal rights. In 1968, designer Rudi Gernreich had launched a collection entirely made of faux animal print designs. It was a turning point that showed leopard print was here to stay and that the empowerment of the print still carried onto faux fabrics, leaving the animals themselves alone. Christian Dior 1969 By the time the 1970s rolled around, leopard print had made its rounds through the fashion world and it was more easily accessible. It was around this time that leopard print was seen as tacky and trashy, and this distinction it earned so long ago still follows it to this day. It became huge in the punk-rock and nightlife scene, earning a seductive reputation. Rod Stewart 1973 The 80s and 90s were a turning point in animal print in fashion, and fashion in general. It was more acceptable to wear things that were out there, specifically in the music scene and nightlife backgrounds. Some designers attempted to reclaim and re-elevate leopard print on the runway, Gianni Versace in the 90s is a prime example of this. While some were trying to make it exclusive again, a bigger group of people were taking leopard print to a different level and making it even more punk and rebellious than before; Kurt Cobain is another example of this. Gianni Versace 1990 The 2000s through the present has seen many different ways of wearing leopard print as well as mixed opinions on it. The print was huge in the early 2000s and it was shown on everything from items of clothing to any and all accessories. In neon and bright colors and in different silhouettes than had been seen before, the early 2000s were something completely unique in the fashion world. As the timeline nears closer to the 2020s, leopard print has been seen on the runway numerous times. It’s now something that is worn by everyone. Its reputation still lingers and there are still mixed reactions to bold animal print pieces, but if we’ve learned anything from fashion history and the cycles it goes through – it’s to wear what you like, when you like it. Trends come and go, and everything within the fashion realm is subjective. What is trashy and too bold to one person can be chic and classy to another. Leopards are fierce, powerful, and courageous. Next time you pick out a leopard print piece, remember that you are too!